It was August 10, 2008 that I discovered a burned wire loom under the dashboard of the truck I have owned for over 35 years. To most people, it's just an old truck. To Chevy truck enthusiasts, it's a 1965 Custom Cab, short wheel base, wide window, small block 283 - rare for it's day.
What started out as a wire replacement project has turned into a complete frame-off restoration/modernization that is still continuing after 29 months and unknown hours of labor. It is a labor of love, so I only work on it as the mood strikes me.
To tell the complete story, I must say that prior to this I had no vehicle repair or rebuild experience at all. I would say my knowledge base was less than average and my experience was limited to oil and spark plug changes . But, with the help of the internet, chevy truck forums, periodicals,and friends that know what they are doing; I have been able to amaze myself. Never forget that God has created something special in each of us and we seldom know all our potential.
When I couldn't figure it out - and I tried to figure it out on my own whenever I could - then I just thought through the situation logically and made a promise to myself. If I didn't do it right, I would just re-do it or pay to have it done right.
I am far from being an expert, but I have learned so much about mechanics, tooling, physics and logic. I suffered, and still do, from sleepless nights wondering if I did it right, or if what I did will withstand the test of an operating vehicle under load. I have told friends and family that nobody gets to drive it (or ride in it?) until I put enough miles on the road to give me confidence in my handiwork.
The purpose of this blog is to share this mechanized journey with anyone who might be interested; I think those who know what they are doing and those who wished they knew what they were doing will enjoy it equally.
Special thanks to my loving wife who is as excited about this project as I am. It was a mutual decision to set a budget that was generous enough to do a worthy project. Thanks is due to Larry Lion and staff of Lion Automotive, Clovis, California for his unequaled expertise, patience and teaching - he is a true friend and mentor, and a fellow believer in the grace of Christ. And thanks are due to the terrific members of the
1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network who have been a tremendous resource to me.
The rest of this blog, as I find time, will consist of the posting of photos (905 as of today) with commentary. Some of these may have some value to restorers and hobbyists, some will be interesting to most anyone and most will have no real value to anyone - myself included.
Thursday, February 24, 2011
Wednesday, February 23, 2011
The tear down
It was these wires that started the whole thing. I decided then to do a re-wire of the entire truck. I purchased a Painless wiring kit (it's still in the box unused). I was going to clean up the engine and take of the bed box to make the wiring a little easier. Once I had the bed box off, I made a decision not to stop there. I was going to clean up the frame and replace all of the bushing and any other rubber components. Although the truck was assembled in 1964, it had low mileage, just over 100,000 miles. So, while I had the bed off I was going to take it to the next level. As it turned out, this was just a small beginning, although I didn't know it at the time.
Tuesday, February 22, 2011
Getting down to the frame.
More detail of just about everything I did to get this truck down to the frame. At this time, I was still planning on keeping the same engine, rear end and transmission (4-spd compound low manual transmission.). That was to change dramatically once I got the frame and suspension back from the powder-coaters.
Monday, February 21, 2011
More disassembly of suspension parts
At this point, still not sure where this is all heading, performance wise, but I had made the decision to send the frame, axle, and suspension parts to the powder coater, and I had made the decision to install a posi-traction differential at the same gear ratio; 3.07:1.
Sunday, February 20, 2011
Warning: Mature Content (Don't look in here unless you are totally bored or desperate for something to do)
Here are 97 photos that are probably of no interest to anyone but me, or someone who has or wants to disassemble a 1965 Chevrolet C10 truck. I took them believing that I would be re-assembling everything just as it was found, thus all the detail on fasteners, bolting, placement, tagging, line runs and so on. I did not know at the time that I would be re-installing little, if any, of these parts. Hey, if it could help someone - here it is, free for the viewing.
Note: This truck had some modifications to it that were not original equipment: power steering, power brakes, 4-bbl carburetor, HEI ignition, front disk brakes, and sway bar.
Note: This truck had some modifications to it that were not original equipment: power steering, power brakes, 4-bbl carburetor, HEI ignition, front disk brakes, and sway bar.
Saturday, February 19, 2011
Things are starting to happen
After all the tear down, greasy messes, skinned knuckles, frozen bolts and close calls with dangerous power tools; things were finally looking like I was getting somewhere. What was once ugly was starting to turn the corner. I now was creating something. When I arrived at Meclec Powder Coating in Fresno, Ca to pick up my frame and suspension, I knew I had reached a turning point. Now I had to get serious about where I was going to take this project. Reinstalling the old drive-train wasn't the answer. Decision time; what was going to drive this thing? It would take hours of research and mind-picking before I would reach a decision.
Friday, February 18, 2011
LS3 Gen IV engine with 4L80E Transmission
After all of the pondering one could ever hope to do, I decided to install a drive-train modern in all aspects. The engine is all-aluminum with coil-on-plug electronics and controlled by a computer. The LS3 was introduced as the Corvette's new base engine for the 2008 model year. It produces 430bhp @5900rpm and 424lb-ft of torque @ 4600rpm. The block is an updated version of the LS2 casting featuring a larger bore of 4.06 in creating a displacement of (6.2 L; 376.0 cu in). It also features higher flowing cylinder heads sourced from the L92, a more aggressive camshaft with 0.551" lift, a 10.7:1 compression ratio, a revised valvetrain with (0.24 in) offset intake rocker arms, a high-flow intake manifold and 47 lb/hr fuel injectors from the LS7 engine.
You can learn more about these at the following links: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GM_4L80-E_transmission; and at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GM_LS_engine.
I had to fabricate motor mounts from the existing set and add an LS3 mounting plate. I have always had some doubts about the strength of the mounts, but won't know until it's running. I then installed a Strange Engineering 3" x .083 Chrome Moly Driveshaft with Spicer 1350 series yokes.
You can learn more about these at the following links: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GM_4L80-E_transmission; and at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GM_LS_engine.
I had to fabricate motor mounts from the existing set and add an LS3 mounting plate. I have always had some doubts about the strength of the mounts, but won't know until it's running. I then installed a Strange Engineering 3" x .083 Chrome Moly Driveshaft with Spicer 1350 series yokes.
I have always wanted this project to look like a well kept old truck driven by an old man that can dust-off most cars on the road. This combination should help me get there.
Thursday, February 17, 2011
I decided against installing any of my previous brake components so I did some research on braking systems and lines. I wanted to keep the cleanest look possible on my firewall so I decided to forgo a canister type vacuum booster and went with a Buick Powermaster electric motor driven booster assembly. Jury will be out on that until I have quite a few miles on the road. The Net is full of posts about the reliability of the system but a mechanic I have great trust in swears by them and has one on his 600 hp Camero. I installed the motor on my frame rail below the master cylinder. I used a rubber sheeted steel band pipe clamp (plumbing supplies) to attach it to the frame rail.
I was planning on using steel brake lines (hard to work with), then thought about stainless steel brake lines (even harder to work with) when my internet research discovered a seldom used line made of a nickel/copper alloy called Cunifer. You can read more about the material at this link: Cunifer Brake Lines
I purchased my line from a very helpful and easy to work with outfit called Federal Hill Trading company, or FedHill for short. Here is their link: FedHill I used both 3/16" and 1/4" lines. FedHill will lend you a excellent flaring tool that allowed me to install my own flare nuts and do my flaring in my garage. There is a $25 a week rental charge on the tool and they are very generous on their definition of a week - its more like 10 days. After practicing one or two times, I was ready to make the real things. It was sooo easy. I was able to hand form the 1/4" cunifer (try that with steel or stainless steel) and I only needed a little help from a tube bender on the larger line (I also used it for fuel lines - upcoming post). Cunifer has a nice look to it as well and can be polished with just a rag.
I installed a GM combination valve since I kept my rear brake drums after deciding I didn't want to spend a grand converting them to disc. I placed that up front hidden out of the way on a cross-member. I never liked seeing those things dangling underneath the brake booster. This photo is more to show the cunifer line than the combo-valve, followed by a photo of the installed Powermaster.
I was planning on using steel brake lines (hard to work with), then thought about stainless steel brake lines (even harder to work with) when my internet research discovered a seldom used line made of a nickel/copper alloy called Cunifer. You can read more about the material at this link: Cunifer Brake Lines
I purchased my line from a very helpful and easy to work with outfit called Federal Hill Trading company, or FedHill for short. Here is their link: FedHill I used both 3/16" and 1/4" lines. FedHill will lend you a excellent flaring tool that allowed me to install my own flare nuts and do my flaring in my garage. There is a $25 a week rental charge on the tool and they are very generous on their definition of a week - its more like 10 days. After practicing one or two times, I was ready to make the real things. It was sooo easy. I was able to hand form the 1/4" cunifer (try that with steel or stainless steel) and I only needed a little help from a tube bender on the larger line (I also used it for fuel lines - upcoming post). Cunifer has a nice look to it as well and can be polished with just a rag.
I installed a GM combination valve since I kept my rear brake drums after deciding I didn't want to spend a grand converting them to disc. I placed that up front hidden out of the way on a cross-member. I never liked seeing those things dangling underneath the brake booster. This photo is more to show the cunifer line than the combo-valve, followed by a photo of the installed Powermaster.
Wednesday, February 16, 2011
Motor Mount Fabrication
Since the ls3 is not native to this vehicle, it requires the expected fabrication to make it work. After-market ls3 motor mounts did not work without modifying the exhaust manifold - which I did not want to do. I did not want to buy a crate engine just to modify it. So, I had to come up with another way to do my motor mounts. I used the original mounts and modified them with a brace. The pictures don't show it, but I welded a piece of angle iron to the inside surface of the angle bracket I created, to give it additional strength against torque forces. As I said in an earlier post, I lack complete confidence in the strength of these to withstand this engine, but a car builder I trust thinks they are more than enough. Time will tell, as it will with many things I have done.
Tuesday, February 15, 2011
Fuel Delivery
The LS3 requires 40 gph and 60 lbs of pressure fuel delivery. I installed an internal pump, fuel regulator/filter, 3/8" cunifer fuel line, and used bump tube quick connectors.
Monday, February 14, 2011
Vintage Air Gen4 Magnum Evaporator Kit install
This a/c kit by Vintage Air is designed for large compartment vehicles like station wagons. It will be the answer to the 100 degree weather where I live. Should freeze me out in 0 to 60 seconds. Compressor came with the LS3 crate engine. I still have to get a condenser (part of the radiator project) and run lines.
Other links:
Captainfab's drawing
Chrometech USA
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